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Rather, on nearly every street you'll find old and new side by side: quiet corners where time seems to be holding its breath next to neon-lit Kalverstraat, Red Light ladies strutting under the city's oldest church.Indeed, Amsterdam has as many facets as a 40-carat diamond polished by one of the city's gem cutters, from the capital, and spiritual "downtown," of a nation ingrained with the principles of tolerance to a veritable Babylon of old-world charm.One man, who spends every evening moving furniture from Burma to Thailand, said he has to pay bribes on the Burmese side, the Thai side, and even to cross a small island in between."I get paid 250 baht () for taking a pile of chairs over - I have to pay 100 baht to the Burmese, 50 baht to the Thais and 30 baht on the island. Suchart Treeratvattana, the former chairman of the Chamber of Commerce in Tak province, which includes Mae Sot, admitted he knew that this nocturnal trade was happening.There are scores of concerts every day, numerous museums, summertime festivals, and a legendary party scene.It's vibrant, but not static (which is why the entry of the Grachtengordel canal ring into the UNESCO World Heritage Site list has not been greeted with universal joy).

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As dusk falls, boats, rafts and even old tractor tyres start appearing, ready to haul the relevant items over the river to fulfil the merchants' orders - avoiding the officialdom on the bridge.

Bribery system This cross-border trade works on a well-organised system of bribery.

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